Thursday, 11 November 2010

Tutorial: Making a slit with seam binding

Isn't it time for a tutorial?? Well I thought so! This time I want to show you how to make a slit using seam binding. I like seam binding, especially since I found that very nifty foot that comes with some sewing mashines.

First tip: If you buy seam binding on a roll, see if you can find that second stick where you should put that extra thread when you are using twin needles. That is really an excellent holder for a roll.
Cut the slit open. In my case I am making a slit in the neck, so I have cut 12 cm open. And in the bottom, make two little cuts, like 2 mm each, one slightly to the left and one to the right. You will see later on why we do this.
Here's the foot. This is not an original part for Bernina, but on eBay you will find all kinds of spareparts that will work with your sewing machine. For Husqvarna there is an original part, which is a bit sturdier than this one...

First thing I do is to pull the seam binding in. It should fit on part in the upper slit, and one in the bottom slit. And the fabric goes in the middle. Easy peasy. Adjust your needle position. The one I am using has 12 positions and I am using the one in the middle of the left-positions, but you might need to try that on your own machine.

When you are sewing, try to gently push the fabric to the right, so that it stays in the foot. And help the foot to feed the seam binding by pre-folding it as you go. And yes, you often wish for that third arm...
Here comes the turn. Now you see why I cut the little extra slits. If you don't cut them this will be very tricky, and probably be one bulky mess. But, with the slits you are able to sew as if it was a straight seam. But, pay extra attention to the fabric, as it tends to draw to the left here.
This is what you will end up with. Nice looking, but a bit odd, since the seam binding is sticking out from the fabric.
Next part is to turn the garment inside and out. And then fold the seam binding so that you end up in the bottom of the slit. Here you will sew a straight seam in an angle. I actually prefer to make it a little bit less than a 45 degrees, as it tends to look better later on.
Wring the garment again. Now you can see the slit. Looks good already, but there will be something poking in your back, which is the little corner you just sewed. So, add an extra top stitch slightly to the left of the middle seam (make sure that the corner is tucked away to the left as well).
So, This is how your finished slit will look like. And, with a little extra ironing it will definitely look perfect!

Good luck!


NAIMIEZ said...

Nice! Wish I had one!

willow and moo said...

Oh that's clever!!!
I've seen the Bernina foot in action and wasn't all that impressed with it, but your set up looks like it works really, really well. I think I need one of those little gadgets!

Thanks for the tute!